[b]Table of Contents:[/b] (Scroll down)
[quote]1) Building a PC (You are here)
2) [url=http://www.bungie.net/en-us/View/community/Forum/Post?id=5298679&path=1]Getting started with Windows; Software, Programs, Optimizations[/url]
3) [url=http://www.bungie.net/en-us/View/community/Forum/Post?id=5300144&path=1]Audio General; Speakers, Headphones, Souncards[/url]
4) [url=http://www.bungie.net/en-us/View/community/Forum/Post?id=5300166&path=1]Audio General; Continued[/url]
5) [url=http://www.bungie.net/en-us/View/community/Forum/Post?id=5300182&path=1]Useful Links and Builds of Other Members[/url][/quote]
[b]Building a PC:[/b] Taken from Cystic. If he would like, I'll type my own section.
After you've gathered all your parts, I'm assuming you're going to wonder what to do with all these wires.
It's a pretty simple process, Of course, and we start with the case and the psu, or if you want, the motherboard, as long as either of them are put in first, it doesn't matter.
[b][u]1. Fitting the PSU[/u][/b]
[quote][i]If you want to fit the motherboard first, go to step 2 then back to step 1.[/i]
Open your case up, and look for a corner that looks like it will fit a PSU in it. It should be pretty obvious, if it already isn't, there should be four or 6 mounting screw holes for the PSU, and possibly parts built into the case to keep it into place. Just slot your PSU into there and screw in the appropriate screws.[/quote]
[b][u]2. Motherboard [/u][/b]
[quote]Your case should already have a couple of mounting screws on the side, and it's pretty straightforward to see where the motherboard belongs and how it fits in the system.
The IO shield (there should be a rectangular shaped hole in the back of your PC) should pop right into the back of your case. An IO shield should look something like [url=http://www.techpowerup.com/articles/144/images/6ioshield.JPG]this[/url].
After popping in the IO shield, check your motherboard box for [url=http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Toennchen_IMGP5029_wp.jpg]standoffs[/url] (they come in plastic too) and screw them into the case's motherboard mounting holes, then just place the motherboard over the standoffs with the inputs that align to the IO shield (as long as your IO shield isn't upside down), and then screw the motherboard into the standoffs with the provided screws.
If a screw won't go in or slightly flexes the motherboard, it might be recommended to leave this screw out, just as long as your motherboard is secure and you're not having problems with fitting upgrades in the PCI slots (we'll come to those later) the motherboard won't mind having a few screws missing if it doesn't look like it's going to be moving or rattling inside the case.[/quote]
[b][u]3. The Processor[/u][/b]
[quote]In your motherboard, there should be a socket that looks either like [url=http://www.hardcore-hardware.com/images/news/lga-2011-computex/ASUS%20DB%206%20-%20Socket%202.JPG]this[/url] (Newer Intel) or [url=http://techreport.com/r.x/socket-am3/socket-am3.jpg]this[/url](Newer AMD), or something similar. It is very important that your socket number matches the motherboard's specifications, e.g LGA 1155 will only work with an LGA 1155 motherboard, even if an LGA 1136 looks like it's going to fit. For AMD, you'll find that they're more versatile in sockets, however, anyone can tell you that you should only vouch for AMD given that you are under a tight budget or are building a computer for relatively basic tasks.
Anyway, you should see a latch on the side of the socket. Lift up the latch, (and if there's a pin protection plate, most likely on Intel motherboards remove it but do not damage it, you may need it later for RMAs.) and place the processor carefully onto the socket (try avoiding contact with the pins, there should be a small indicator such as a small triangle on the CPU and the motherboard showing which way the processor should be placed) then carefully slot the cpu into place, making sure it's in, and then you want to close the lid (for intel processors) and then press the latch down firmly and secure it.[/quote]
[b][u]4. The PCI expansions[/u][/b]
[quote]On your motherboard, there should be a couple of PCI expansion slots, [url=http://www.naplestech.com/shopcart/images/pc_slots.gif]in their respective sizes.[/url]
Now depending on the type of graphics card you buy, it should tell you which slot it goes in. Now, you start off by seeing which back plates the PCI slot is aligned to on the case, and you can begin by unscrewing the plate. You will want to do this with the case lying flat. In some cases for larger, or more powerful cards, they will use 2 of these back plates and you will need to unscrew more than one. Some PCI slots come with security latches that secure the card in place, and it should make a clicking sound when you plug the card into the slot. After the card is in place, you can use the screws you've taken out of the back panel to secure the card into the case, so that it stays there.
This applies to other PCI slot accessories, e.g more USB slots, PCI wireless cards, capture cards, etc. [/quote]
[b][u]5. The Optical Drive/Blu-Ray Drive/SD Card reader etc.[/u][/b]
[quote]Now these are very easy to install, inside the front half of your case, there should be a few slots for whichever peripherals you choose to install. Remove the front panel dust shield/filters (if you have any) for the slot you want your drive to take.
Where the dust shield is removed, just slot in the drive and it should not stick out of the front panel, nor should it be pushed inward too much. After the necessary adjustments, you will see holes for screws in the side of the drive bays - you want to secure the drive in place firmly, but not too tightly, just until the screw's turning becomes slightly difficult to turn.[/quote]
[b][u]6. Hard Drive[/u][/b]
[quote]You should see underneath where your disc drive is supposed to be {unless it's some sort of obscure case), there should be a mounting area for HDDs similar to the disc drive bays, now for some cases, you may get easy-install options, such as NZXT's clip-on and slide in. You can also purchase 2.5-3.5 inch conversion cases for your 2.5" HDD if you want to move over data from a laptop or an mATX desktop.
Installation should be straight forward and very similar to the disc drives, you should have no problem installing it. Again, you only have to make sure it's secure, not tighten it to oblivion.[/quote]
[b][u]7. Wiring and Cable Management[/u][/b]
[quote]([i]Skip the first paragraph if you don't want to use cable management, it saves the hassle afterwards[/i])
If you have a modular PSU, only plug in the power cables you need, and for non-modular PSUs, just keep the spare wires away from the main airflow pats of the machine, you can use zip-ties and bunch them up behind the PC's back panel (if it has one) or just keep them away from the fans.
First, place all of the components inside the case, including the PSU, but keep the cables outside the case. First, take the 24-pin motherboard power cable and put it through the opening closest to the PSU. Run this behind the motherboard and out the hole closest to the 24-pin motherboard connector. Do the same with the 8-pin CPU connector. This is the only cable which might not be long enough, in which case you will need one of [url=http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-8-Inch-8-Pin-Extension-EPS8EXT/dp/B000M802RG]these[/url].
Once those cables are in, you'll want to attach the SATA cables to the optical drive, HDD, and any SSD's you might have. You can either run these through the same hole as the 24-pin, or a closer hole. I generally like to use the same [url=http://www.proits-it.com/Support/skills/Photos/eSATA_TypA.jpg]SATA A[/url] cable for my HDD and optical. If needed, you can lower the position of the optical drive so that the cable will reach, or even raise your hard drives. Make sure that when you are routing these cables that they do NOT overlap on the other cables that you already have, otherwise you will not be able to easily put your side panel back on.
Connect the front panel cords that are attached to your case to the bottom of the motherboard. I generally like to keep them low to the case so that they can go under the other cords and out the hole where the PSU is. You can also route them through the hole under where you inserted the 24-pin, provided you have a case with enough rubber grommets. Although I do not advise it, some builders cut off the AC97 cable that is attached to the HD Audio cable (HD > AC97) so that they have a more clean look.
After this, all that's left are the GPU cables and molex cables for fans. These are pretty self-explanatory. Just remember to not overlap cords. If you don't have twist ties, you can go to your local grocery store and grab some of those green twist ties in the produce section. You also might have some that came with your PC components.
I'll post my build with labels once my H100 comes back from Corsair.[/quote]
[url=http://imgur.com/a/oqpHx]Infographics[/url] (NSFW on the mousepad image).
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[b]Audio General; Speakers, Headphones, Souncards:[/b] [url=http://i.imgur.com/LdZMp.png]The average day of audiophile.[/url] [b]Headsets?:[/b] [quote]Alright, here's where Fluffy is going to lay some science on you. Generally, gaming headsets range from $50-$300. What exactly is a gaming headset? Well, imagine it as a $20 gas-station headphone with a built in microphone. Yeah, they really are that cheap. So I come here to offer you an alternative, head[i]phones[/i] made for music, but ones that perform exceptionally better than headset brands such as [b]Tritton, Turtlebeach, Razer, Logitech,[/b] or [b]Astro.[/b][/quote] [b]Microphones:[/b] [quote]First off, you're going to need a mic to work with them. This is the easiest part. If you want a cheaper solution, don't mind having an extra cord down your side, travel often, and would rather use a 3.5mm jack than a USB, then get a [url=http://www.amazon.com/Zalman-Zm-Mic1-Sensitivity-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B00029MTMQ/]Zalman clip-on mic.[/url] If you have ten more bucks, only want to have the headphone cord in your way, have a spare USB port, and care about quality, get a [url=http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-981-000246-USB-Desktop-Microphone/dp/B002RL84OY/]Logitech desktop mic.[/url] I suggest the second, but either one works. A third alternative is the [url=http://www.modmic.com/]AntLion Modmic,[/url] but be prepared to wait a while to order one. If you really want to get into high-quality microphones, you can look at [url=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004QJREXM/]Audio-Technica[/url] or [url=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008F4USMS/]Blue.[/url][/quote] [b]Brands:[/b] [quote][u]Grado[/u] - generally, bright, forward, aggressive, with great sense of immediacy/speed and energy, but not as spacious sounding as Senns or AKGs or Beyers. Easier to drive than the competition, but do benefit a good deal from amping, especially tube amps I think. [u]Alessandro[/u] - technically like Grado, but more relaxed and neutral. [u]Sennheiser[/u] - Generally balanced with some extra warmth. Smooth and relaxed sound compared to Grados with better sense of space and better imaging (depending on the models compared). More neutral. Some find them not as detailed as Grado's and veiled or lacking energy. Most of their high end cans need a great amp and source to shine and also balancing. [u]Denon[/u] - Bassy. Great soundstage and imaging for closed cans. Good detial accuracy. Bass is very deep but can be boomy with wrong source and/or amp. Mods apparently help a lot (i.e markl mod). Also need good amp and source. [u]Audio-Techinca[/u] - Their open models and some closed ones are bass light for some, but bass quality is generally good. Their closed cans can actually be quite bassy. Midrange is usually a bit forward or recessed depending on the model. Treble can also be forward or recessed. Something like a mix of Grados and Senns - not as aggressive as Grado, but not as laid back as Senn. Known for great imaging and soundstage. Generally easy to drive. [u]AKG[/u] - Known for great clarity. their full-sized open cans are also known for excellent soundstage and imaging. Some think their open cans are a bit lean on bass and forward on treble (i.e K701) Other think they neutral. Also known for realistic tonality. generally hard to drive and require a good amount of burn-in to open up. [u]Beyerdynamic[/u] - known for great treble. Some cans like DT770 are also known for huge bass which some think is overpowering and/or bloated. Are generally not easy to drive, but easier than Senn HD6** series. The sound is usually clear and clean and somewhat bright/enthusiastic. Generally more neutral than Audio-Technica, kinda like Senn, but with different flavour. Some think Beyers are more neutral and Senns sound too sweet, but that depends on which models you compare. [u]Ultrasone[/u] - Very controversial cans. Some think they are very neutral and revealing, but need a lot of juice and/or burn-in to reach their full potential. others think their basses are bloated or overpowering and treble is harsh/metallic and mids are recessed. They are generally acknowledged as having good soundstage for closed headphones though.[/quote] [b]Headphone Suggestions:[/b] [quote]Now that you have a basic idea of what the brands are, I can show you the prices. [url=http://www.head-fi.org/a/headphone-buying-guide]Here is the go-to headphone buying guide.[/url] It has the most information out of any thread I have seen in a while, and thus I will refer to it often. The best setup for your money would be an [url=http://www.amazon.com/Technica-ATH-AD700-Open-air-Audiophile-Headphones/dp/B000CMS0XU/]Audio Technica ATH-AD700[/url] with a Zalman clip-on mic. The total would come out to $100. "But Fluffy, that's as much as a [url=http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Gaming-Headset-Surround/dp/B003VANOFY/]Logitech G930.[/url]" Well, yes, but it's ten times better. The AD700 is [i]the[/i] most comfortable headset on the market for under $150. This is due to the grips that suspend the drivers from your ears without actually touching your head. Speaking of the drivers, they're [b]freaking huge.[/b] Again, you won't find this quality in this price range. If you want an upgrade from this style, you can get the [url=http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-AD900-Dynamic-Headphones/dp/B001AQ7KII/]AD900's.[/url] I have not listened to both, so I can not accurately compare them (I own the 900's). However, I can attest to the fact that they have the best soundstage out of any headphone. 7.1? More like 9.0 (The .1 being the lack of a sub. They aren't very punchy with the bass. These are treble headphones). Although they only use two drivers, as with any other headphone, the soundstage simulates a much broader environment due to the size of the drivers, not only in games, but in music. Yeah, don't forget that you can also use these babies with your iTunes library (although it will reveal the glaring flaws in lossy files, and then we'll have to start talking Foobar and Bandcamp). One thing though, the 900's are NOT portable in any sense of the word. They are open headphones, so they are very exposed to moisture. They're also super fragile. Expect these to stay at your computer. If you want on-the-go headphones, look into the [url=http://www.amazon.com/V-MODA-Crossfade-Noise-Isolating-Headphone-Shadow/dp/B005HSDLCO/]V-Moda M-80's[/url]. Bass heavy, removable cable, foldable. You can purchase custom ear-shields for about $23, and your first purchase is 15% off. You can also upgrade to any pair after that for 50% off if your cans break.[/quote] [b]Best Headphones for the Price:[/b] [quote]Audio-Technica's ATH-AD900 ~$195 Beyerdynamic's DT880 (600 Ohm) ~$340 Sennheiser's HD600 - $399 HE-400 - $399 HE-500 - $699[/quote]